The Next Chapter: Guadalajara

My stomach illness receded and we were finally able to leave Chacala, although we didn’t really want to. We lugged our two backpacks, guitar, and box o’ books to the center of the village where we caught a taxi to Las Varas (a slightly larger town about 5 minutes away from Chacala). As mentioned in my previously blog, the taxi driver went above and beyond the call of duty. We arrived in Guadalajara from Las Varas after an uneventful 4-hour bus ride. We watched the Adam Sandler movie “Click” (with subtitles, not dubbed thank goodness), watched the scenery, and generally relaxed in the cushy comfortable seats of the first-class bus. The movie, by the way, was very amusing, and yet again inexplicably, as seems with all of Adam Sandler’s movies, it got bad reviews from the critics. Anyways, I digress, where was I? Oh ok, so I was still feeling a little woozy from my Chacala bug (which Melanie passed to me with a kiss – not a bad way to get sick I guess), but overall my intestines were doing ok and luckily (for everyone on board, not just me) I only needed to use the 200-degree bus bathroom/ sauna once. Why do they keep the passenger sections freezing and the bathrooms like sweat rooms? All I know is that the aromatherapy in that sauna wasn’t very relaxing.

We arrived in Guadalajara, flagged a cab, and after a long ride (it’s an extremely large city (6-7 mil people)) we arrived in the historic center of the city at our hotel. I think Melanie gives a description of the hotel bathroom in her blog (bohova-mel.blogspot.com). Check it out!

The city was teeming with people of all ages, shapes and sizes. Like I said this is an extremely large city, however, as seems to be a continuing theme for me in Mexico, I was the only blonde. Nevertheless, in cities everyone walks around with blinders on, so no one paid much attention to me. We mostly walked around the city taking pictures for the next few days. There were some amazing sights to take in such as the Orozco murals, the cathedral, the bird market in the city center, live music in the town center, and many antique hotels and buildings.

The main Orozco murals were by far the most impressive spectacle and are a must see for anyone that ever visits this part of Mexico. They are truly awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, masterful works of art (see Mel’s blog for an example).

The cathedral was grand and elaborate with statues, gold and extravagant stained glass. On display was a real corpse of a 7-year-old virgin martyr preserved in a glass case with a plaster face covering (why do they have to specify a 7 year old as a virgin? Ok, I have a lot of questions about this one… very creepy).

One of the other interesting sights was the food market in the basement of a multi-floored shopping center. This place was definitely the most putrid experience so far in the journey, and although we wanted to take a picture, it felt way too awkward with the vendors all giving us the “stink-eye” (pun intended). It was gross enough seeing the many rows of fresh cut fruits, breads and pastries that were open to all the feasting flies and other hungry little bugs, but when we got to the meat aisle it was stomach jarring – huge slabs of beef, whole skinless pigs, cut up chickens all hanging out into the aisles – no glass cases here. There seemed to be no end in sight – open season for the hoards of bugs and flies to eat their entrées, lay their eggs, and then proceed one row over for a nice pastry and some fruit for dessert. We had a good laugh thinking of all the veggies/vegans from California being trapped in that basement (some people aren’t laughing right now).

The bird market in the center of the city had some really funky looking genetically engineered pigeons – never seen anything like them. There were lots of other little bird markets (some in the same complex as the meat market) with 15-20 birds stuffed into one little cage. Poor little things! We wanted to free them all. The music was orchestral style classical music, free every weekend night, the town center filled with people sitting on benches (some of them making out exuberantly) surrounding the elaborate rotunda stage. It was not quite as entertaining as when we were in Merida, Yucatan, Mx, a few years ago, where there was free live salsa music on weekend nights, and all the grandmas and grandpas were up bumpin’ and grindin’, and there were many many more people sitting around cuddling and kissing.

On our next to last day we took a day tour by bus to Tequila, Mx for a tequila tasting tour. On the way we stopped at little town to learn about and see the Basilica de Zapopan, where people flock to pay homage and pray to the vírgen de la expectación, which is a tiny statue inside the cathedral. It is also the home of many Franciscan monks. The Basilica was spectacular although we did not get a chance to go inside. It was Sunday with mass every hour, people packed in like little holy sardines. I’m sure the inside was a sight to behold. We were then quickly whisked away to get drunk off tequila to counter-act all that religion. Our first “getting drunk” stop was at a little shack on the side of the road called “Tres Mujeres”. It was, by far, the best tequila on the tour (better than Don Julio – was thinking of you Dave and Craig) and as you can see they offered 100% natural mujeres as well, although Melanie wouldn’t let me order any. We took a few shots and then it was off to the Jose Cuervo factory where we took a backstage tour of the production process. Very interesting, but the tequila sucked. The margaritas weren’t bad though. Melanie got really drunk – just look at her, bottle in one hand, margarita in the other! We were then rounded up like drunken little cows to a desolate corner of the town where our tour guide proceeded to rob us at machete-point. We were then loaded up onto a different bus and brought back to the city.

We had a wonderful time in Guadalajara and, by the way, our tour guide did not actually mug us. Our hotel was cute, we had a nice café and a Dunkin Donuts right next door, and there were two terrific restaurants within eyesight. It was very romantic and had many things to see and do, and even though it is a big city, the best stuff is compacted into the historic town center. The only time we had to take a vehicle was on the tequila tour. Well, that’s it for now. I’m currently sitting in my bed in a city called Irapuato, where my sister-in-law’s family lives. We’ve had a great time here as well, but I’ll write about that in my next blog.

Hasta Proximo!

Chris

Mexico or bust

Thanks to Dad and Stacey

First I would like to thank Rick and Stacey for their hospitality while Melanie and I were staying with them. We had first class accomodations, use of their car, and complete comfort. They are taking care of our trouble-making cats which I already miss immensely. Gotta love that picture of Monkey with the toilet paper bow. Anyways, Thanks again you guys for helping us make this a reality. It took me almost an entire week to shake that Okie accent though, grr. Shout out to Charlie Redd, Caddio, Chris, Stan the Man (even though I didnt see him), and the rest of the band -- you guys sounded incredible. Full Flava Kings. Also, thanks to Mike, Matt ankd Karen for the great fun -- We had a sleep-over LAN gaming party, Woohoo!

Chacala

We have been in Guadalajara since last Tuesday and are having a wonderful time, but more about that later. Chacala was incredible. Although Tushar was unable to come down to hang out with us while we were there, his spirit and graciousness was with us the entire time. Among all of the little things he did, he hooked us up with an opportunity to hang out with the kids at the local school for a day and he introduced us to two of his friends, great people and who I consider friends of ours now, Shai and Shuli. He even called in a favor to one of his buddies in a neighboring town to come and give us surfing lessons. Here I am on the left about to catch a huge wave (not exactly Mavericks I guess). But I will say I went out the next day and the ocean was much angrier and I got my ass kicked by some good 8-9 foot waves off shore (didn't catch a single one, but many caught me...). I'm officially a surf bum now. Look out Santa Cruz when I get back into town...


We had an amazing experience and the perfect start to our journey in Chacala. The raw beauty of the nature as well as the people still exists here. I've never been somewhere where all the people and kids are so kind and hospitable. We both managed to get sick for 24 hours, but thankfully we each took turns each of the last 2 days. I can only wish that will be the worst of it (D, no V) in a private bathroom with an ocean view. My bowels have been back to normal for quite some time now...TMI? (no picture, you'll have to trust me).

I'd like to give shout outs to Lupe and Pablo, the people taking care of the place while we were there. They were so helpful, kind and caring. I will always remember them. They kept that place spotless -- It seemed a shame we didn't have more of a chance to get to know them when they weren't working -- they seemed like our surrogate grandparents or something.... More shout outs in Chacala to: Acela's restaurant, the best ceviche on the beach and the best service by far. The prices of course were amazing and the fish was great as well. The best salsa was at Chico's. The best overall dinner was at Majahua, which also had the best view up on the mountainside-- looked like a great spa as well. Best breakfast by far was at the cafe at Casa Pacifica guest house - fresh homeade bread, huge fruit bowls, and great french toast - with an incredible view as well. Thanks also to the taxi driver that ran with us for three block carrying one of our extremely heavy backpacks and Melanie's box of books (the encyclopedia britannica collection is coming in handy though) so we could catch the bus to Guadalajara. So many people that we hardly know going above and beyond for us -- it seems surreal. Thanks to all.

Like I said Guadalajara has been great. We're here for 2 more nights and I will write some about our stay here another time. Btw, Melanie and I are buying wedding rings to wear so we're not seen as immoral. One of the actual rules at the hotel we're staying in here states that any actions seen as immoral by management will result in immediate expulsion from the hotel. They stuck us in a room with two beds. I guess they don't care we've been together for 10 years. Anyways, we don't want to get kicked out on the streets, and who knows how many camera angles they have covered in this room so we're gonna get fake-married and no one is invited. :P

Hasta Pronto!

Chris

Travelling Madness

The day of departure finally arrived and, as usual, it did not go perfectly according to plan. We had the idea that we were more prepared than ever and had so few belongings that we would simply throw our things into a few boxes then into the van, gather the cats and be on the road at 2 -3 a.m.

Packing our stuff turned out to be more difficult than expected as we had way more stuff than we realized as is usually the case when anyone moves. Melanie finished up packing (we were already behind schedule) and I started loading the van. I thought I was brillant in my loading packing everything from back to front very neatly and orderly. The van was stuffed. I left a space just large enough for the two cat carriers on the floor behind the driver’s seat. It looked great and it sounds great as well right?

Well the first thing Melanie said (thank God she is part of this team or we’d be screwed) is:
“Aren’t all the boxes going to fall right on the cats as soon as you hit the brakes?”
I was stupified. I instantly had a great idea for re-organization and popped the hatchback to stuff some boxes into the back and wedge everything in tight so it would solve the question posed. Now let me breifly state that I had not slept in a long long time. To continue, Melanie had several boxes with papers, books, magazines she had neatly organized and needed to have on hand for her writing projects, so I had packed them in last right beside the open side door. The tops of the boxes were not sealed at all... In my pushing and shoving of all the boxes ( mind you it was already about 3 a.m.) I managed to shove one of her boxes out into the parking lot and it exploded her neatly organized things everywhere into the wind. After gathering her stuff into a Chris-like pile now and back in to the box she was having to breathe very deeply and say (to herself I think) “everything is ok” repeatedly.

After quickly regaining our composure she suggested getting something like bungee cords to secure the boxes. We made a run to Long’s drug store for bungee cords which they did not have in stock. I purchased a long rope telling her I would tie a spiderweb with the rope and it would all be fine and we probably didn’t need to secure it more anyway. On the way back home I hit the brakes at a stop light and all the boxes came tumbling foward in a big heap right where the cats would have been...

After repositioning the boxes I attempted to tie my spiderweb which of course turned out to be completely lame as there was nothing to tie the rope to. It was almost 5 a.m. now and if Melanie owned a tazer I’m positive she would have used it on me at this point. She asked very nicely if she could try for a second to redo the box packing so that the cats would sit on top of the boxes instead of in front of them, plus it would be more structurally sound. I ripped all the rope out in a huff and went inside to gather the cats. It maybe took her 5 minutes to have the perfect setup with our comforter on top of the boxes where the cat carriers would sit about shoulder level (and nothing could smash them). We unfortunately forgot to put wee wee pads underneath them...
The cats were yowling as we finally got on the road around 5:30 a.m. Melanie took the first driving shift as she had slept some and I was complete mental mush. To make matters worse we were supposed to meet her friend in L.A. for breakfast which was never going to happen now. We took the 1 to the 152 so we could catch the 5 south. By the time we made it to the 152 traffic was already heating up.

Here’s the scoop at this point:
1. We’re both exhausted
2. There are about 5 pickup trucks and cars tailgaiting us trying to pass us on that winding hellish road 152
3. Both cats are screaming their heads off and Ella decides to take a gigantic dump and pee in her carrier.
4. The van fills with the lovely smell of cat urine and turds.
5. Did I mention that the cats were screaming?
6. Our nice down comforter is now soaked with cat urine.

While she’s driving I reach in to Ella’s carrier and hold her in as I try to scoop her massive bm out with the measly one napkin I could find. Of course the napkin slipped and I scooped most of it out “Craig” style (bare-handed). I had the pleasure of hold the steaming hot gift in my hand for a good 20 minutes until we made it to place to pull over where I could huck it. I scraped the poop residue off my hand with a leaf (didnt have any water), and we sat shell-shocked in the van for a few minutes laughing hysterically (we were completely insane at this point). So..... we hopped right back on the road and drove for a few more hours. The cats actually ended up quieting down a little and we stopped a couple of hours short of L.A. at about 8 - 9 a.m. at a small town with a Best Western.
The rest of the trip went relatively smooth and the cats in the end were sleeping in the passenger’s lap or at our feet. Monkey was surprisingly way less traumatized than Ella and we made it to Oklahoma in 3 days at about midnight.

By the way, the picture is Ella comfortable in her new home.

Til next time,

Chris